************************************************************************** Making OOAK Doll Head Face with Sculpted Eyes – Part 1 COVERS: A. TOOLS AND MATERIALS B. SKULL C. FACE MAP ************************************************************************** A. TOOLS AND MATERIALS First, get ready. Collect everything in front of you on the table. – proportions image – brass square tubing 1/8? and 3/32? – thin wire steel 24 ga – wire cutters – polymer clay – mini calipers – ruler – mini palette knife – X-Acto knife – ball-point stylus tools set – old “That’s the One” tool (original, in dark acacia wood, but more expensive, needs conditioning with oil – remove some of the dark wood stain so that it does not leave dark marks on clay) OR – new “That’s the One” tool (light wood, will not stain clay (!), even smaller (!), less expensive (!), but needs smoothing and fine tuning with a manicure file) – fine point dental rubber tool – flat smoothing brush/brushes ************************************************************************** Now go change into white or light-colored shirt, WASH YOUR HANDS – scrub with a sponge the palms of your hands, the fingertips and fingernails. You will be glad you did. The clay takes from your hands all dirt, oil and dead skins cells and becomes dirty while you sculpt. Use a simple hand lotion for the back of your hands, if you have to (I, for example, feel dry and uncomfortable without my Nivea Soft on my hands) but make sure you wipe the lotion carefully from the palms and the fingertips. B. SKULL First, I am going to make a baked “skull”. It will support the clay while I am making the face and keep me from straying away from my proportions, so that I don’t end up with the head too big or too small. 01. - Cut a piece of 1/8? tubing. - This time I am using square tubes – they have an added advantage – they do not rotate. - I find it helpful to sculpt the head separately from the rest of the body (the head “module”). - The head module goes on another tube (1/8? fits telescopically with 3/32?), so that I have a handle while I sculpt. The head module goes on the neck part of the armature after the head is sculpted and baked. 02. - Wrap the tube with thin (24 ga) wire so that clay has something to hold on to and does not slide off. 03. - Make a clay ball. 04. - Take calipers or a divider or a double needle compass and a ruler. - Human body is about 7.5 heads tall. My doll is 27 cm tall (1/6 scale), her head is 3.6 cm. - The width of the head is about 2/3 of the height of the head (2.4 cm). - Shape the head. The back of the head is slightly wider than the front. 05. - Take a flat knife or a needle. - Make a vertical line in the front of the head. 06. - Make a horizontal line in the middle of the front. - Front. - Side. 07. - Divide the lower part in half and make a 45 degrees cut. 08. - Cut off the back of the head. - I am making something like this (roughly). 09. - Shape a chin. - Cut off the front layer of clay. After the skull is baked, I am going to replace it with raw clay and make the face. 10. - Smooth it out. 11. - Make holes for ear canals. 2015-06-2909.27.27 12. - Bake. ************************************************************************** C. FACE MAP 13. - The “skull” is baked. Put a “pancake” of clay on the front. 14. - Seam the clay to the head and smooth it out to prepare for sculpting. 15. - Now I am going to make a face map. - I will show the lines on the picture of this beautiful woman, and then on clay. - Make a vertical line on the front (divide in half). - Make vertical lines on the sides (divide in half). 16. - Double-check the height of the head. - Divide the total height of the head in half – eye line. - Mark the eye line… - … all the way to the ears. 17. - Measure the width of an eye. I am going to use this “1 eye” measurement to build the map. - “1 eye” measurement marks the width between inner corners of the eyes. 18. - “1 eye” for each eye, obviously. - “1 eye” from the outer corner of the eye to the hairline on the temple (approximately). 19. - Now vertically: “1 eye” between eyebrow line and the septum (approximately). 20. - “1 eye” to the bottom of the columella (bottom of the nose). I just looked this word up. 21. - “1 eye” to the dimple under the lower lip. - Two of the “1 eye” measurements to the top hairline 22. - Take ball stylus tools in different sizes. - Draw the eyes, the nose and the mouth (which is ABOVE your chin dimple mark, NOT ON IT). - Draw the hairline, too. 23. - The face map is done. - Additional proportions reference for considering while you are completing the face map. Note the left image: 3 equal parts of the face. ************************************************************************** Making OOAK Doll Head Face with Sculpted Eyes – Part 2 COVERS: D. ROUGH SHAPE ************************************************************************** D. ROUGH SHAPE Now I am going to make a rough face shape – just general planes, major landmarks and indentations. No fine details at this point. 24. - Take “That’s the One” Tool – a basic do-it-all wooden tool. - Put a small sausage of clay on the nose. 25. - Seam it and smooth it out with a flat end of wooden tool. - When I say “seam”, that means careful attaching of the piece of clay to the head,… - … making sure you don’t leave any air bubbles under this new layer of clay, working with small strokes of the tool on the “seam”, then smoothing is with a brush. 26. - Make eye sockets. 27. - Make nose bridge and indentations in the outer corners of eye sockets. 28. - Press in the temples. 29. - Indentations above the eyebrows. 30. - Smooth the clay down from the bottom of the eye sockets. 31. - Smooth the clay down from the nose towards the mouth. 32. - Make three dimples – above the chin and in the corners of the mouth. 33. - Take the fine point dental rubber tool. - Tuck the corners of the mouth in. Make the mouth line by gently pressing with the sharp point, … - … going from the corner of the mouth to the center (gentle pressing, no dragging or cutting). 34. - Slightly turn up the upper lip. 35. - Gently press under the lower lip to form it. 36. - Flatten the cheeks. 37. - Take the smoothing brushes. - Brush the upper edges of the eye sockets upward. - Brush the place above the nose bridge upward. 38. - Brush the eyebrows back down, but not the place above the nose bridge. Brush the outer corners of the eyebrows upward and outward to the temples. 39. - Flatten the forehead above the nose bridge. - Smooth the forehead with the brush. 40. - Add small flattened balls of clay for eyes. 41. - Seam them in with a ball stylus. 42. - Brush down the areas under the eyes. 43. - With the three different ball stylus tools make six shallow indentations on the nose – 3 on each side. - Largest – where eye socket meets the nose bridge. - Smaller – in the middle of the nose. - Smallest – under the nose wings (future nostrils). The nose is NOT flat at the bottom, it is sort of triangular, with the columella hanging down lower than the wings of the nose. 44. - Smooth the nose towards the cheeks, give it a good shape, but without too much detail. - If it is too wide – brush from the cheeks onto the nose. - If it is too short – down the nose, too long – upwards. 45. - Brush the area under the nose toward the cheeks. 46. - Brush the chin down, make it long and pointed. You will bring it back in the next step. 47. - Form the chin with your fingers. Push the point of the chin slightly forward and up. 48. - If necessary, add some clay for the jaw bone. 49. - Seam the clay, brush new clay forward, and upward and towards the ears. - Then brush again the cheeks down, make them flat from the cheek bone to the jaw bone. 50. - With the curved end of the “That’s the One” tool form the jaw line. - The bottom of the jaw (if you look from the bottom) is sort of flat and triangular, like a clothes iron. 51. - Check for symmetry. The rough shape is done. ************************************************************************** Making OOAK Doll Head Face with Sculpted Eyes – Part 3 COVERS: E. FINE DETAILS – EYES F. FINE DETAILS – NOSE G. FINE DETAILS – MOUTH ************************************************************************** E. FINE DETAILS – EYES 52. - Find again “1 eye” measurement on the eye line. 53. - Gently pressing down (no dragging or cutting) outline the OUTER lid lines. - Tuck in the corners of the eyes. 54. - Gently pressing down (no dragging or cutting) outline the INNER lid lines. - Tuck in the corners of the eyes. 55. - Gently push inwards the whites of the eyes with the ball stylus - Gently push inwards the corners of the eyes with the sharp point dental tool. The lower lid line is actually an S-shaped line. - Additional reference for eyes. - PLAY TIME – TRY DIFFERENT SHAPE OPTIONS. The eyes are done. ************************************************************************** F. FINE DETAILS – NOSE 56. - Brush down the areas under the eyes. 57. - Deepen the eye sockets next to the nose bridge. - Smooth and brush those areas. Check the nose bridge and deepen it if necessary. Smooth and brush that area. 58. - Brush the nose down. Make it long. - You will need it because when you make nostrils, it tends to go upward under the pressure and ends up too short. 59. - With the small ball stylus make the nostrils, pulling them slightly to the sides and pushing slightly upward. - Make the columella by pulling the nostrils slightly towards the center and downwards. 60. - Pressing down with the rubber fine point tool… - … mark the nose wing lines (no dragging or cutting). 61. - Widen the nostrils again slightly if necessary. - Put a small indentation just above the tip of the nose to make it bulbous like a lot of people have. - Push it upward to make it upturned. Or keep it aquiline. 62. - Working gently with a brush, correct the symmetry, the size, the width. - Brushing upward makes it shorter, brushing downward makes it longer. Brushing towards the sides makes it wider and more flat. Brushing towards the center makes it prominent and longer. - Additional reference for nose. - PLAY TIME – TRY DIFFERENT SHAPE OPTIONS. The nose is done. ************************************************************************** G. FINE DETAILS – MOUTH 63. - Brush downward and to the sides the area under the nose. Make a divet. 64. - Tuck in mouth corners. - Define the mouth line like before, but with more detail and precision. 65. - Turn the upper lid upward - Make symmetrical, make a divet. 66. - If you have enough clay, form the lower lip. If you don’t, tuck inward what you have there for the lower lip… 67. - …and simply add a bit more clay. Define the lower lip, put a tiny shallow dimple in the middle. - Additional reference for mouth. - PLAY TIME – TRY DIFFERENT SHAPE OPTIONS. The mouth is done. 68. - Smooth and brush the chin, turn it slightly upward. Smooth and brush the cheeks and the jaw line. 69. - With a small ball stylus draw eyebrows. 70. - Brush the inner ends of eyebrows slightly down towards the eye, … - … and the outer ends of eyebrows up and out to the temples, creating a eyebrow line. - PLAY TIME – TRY DIFFERENT SHAPE OPTIONS.. The face is complete. ************************************************************************** Making OOAK Doll Head Face with Sculpted Eyes – Part 4 COVERS: H. FINE DETAILS – EARS I. FINAL CLEAN-UP ************************************************************************** CLICK ON ANY PHOTO TO ENLARGE. CLICK ON THE LARGER PHOTO TO ENLARGE EVEN MORE. ************************************************************************** H. FINE DETAILS – EARS - General reference - Different types 71. - Find and refresh the vertical lines on the sides. 72. - Mark line to eyebrow. - Mark line to eye. - Mark line to nose. 73. - Refresh “1 eye” measurements on eye line: “1 eye” from the outer corner of the eye to the hairline,… - …one more “1 eye” measurement to the ear (approximately). 74. - The ear is tilted slightly back, at a 15 degree angle. 75. - Mark the ear canal. 76. - Check the symmetry. 77. - Add 2 flat oval pieces of clay. 78. - Seam the clay to the head, smooth toward the front of the head. 79. - Outline the ear with a sharp point dental tool, make an large shallow indentation inside the ear, shape the ear lobe. 80. - Find again the ear canal, like you did in the Step 76. - Make a C-shape hole around the ear canal. 81. - The Step 81 was omitted by accident. Go to Step 82. 82. - Make a shallow cavity around the C-shape hole and a small shallow cavity in the upper part of the ear. - Clean up the helix. Make smaller ears than what I made. I need more practice on the ear-making. The ears are done. ************************************************************************** I. FINAL CLEAN-UP 83. - Take the smoothing brush, dab it in polymer oil, wipe it almost dry. Very carefully, one tiny stroke at a time, smooth out the whole face, try not to ruin the fine details. - Keep checking for symmetry. Get the magnifier, if you have it. Now it is also a good time to lift the lint fibers, if they are not too deeply embedded in the clay – oil makes them float on the surface. - However, don’t worry about the “dirt” too much. The “dirt issue” goes away with time, as with practice you will spend less time handling clay and making it dirty with your hands. Leave it as is. - Bake. - A bit of cutting of some of the clay from the back of the head. - Done! Thank you for reading. Good luck! Send me the photos of the head when you make it.